Smugglers Trail ~ Circular Walk

Gunsgreen House is now closed for the winter season, so why now take a walk to discover the old paths the smugglers used to get their cargoes
out of sight!
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At the south-east end of the Linkim Shore, looking towards Eyemouth, an old path leads down to sea level from the clifftop. The main Smugglers Trail can be seen on the field edge, near the fence on the right

The Smugglers Trail Circular Walk from Gunsgreen House.

The Smugglers Trail takes you along the coast, to see some of the out-of-the-way coves and beaches that the ‘free-traders’ favoured in days of old. Today, of course, you enjoy a country walk by travelling along the shore to enjoy the views and the historic places – but the smugglers used the terrain in a different way. Their intention was usually to get off the coast as quickly as possible with their goods! That way, the tea, wine, gin – or whatever their shipment was – could be stashed away inland, often at farms, ready for distribution to ready buyers in the local community.

Come and discover the Old Smugglers Paths.

Many of the paths used by the smugglers can still be made out today. For instance, it’s a feature well worth looking out for in the Eyemouth to Coldingham section of the trail. Little beaches that, at first glance, only look accessible with difficulty down steep grassy slopes will, on closer inspection, reveal old tracks that smugglers leading loaded horses could tackle quite easily.

Our Eyemouth circular walk (via Coldingham) 

An excellent and signposted track leads away from the Linkim Shore. This historic footpath is well worth exploring to take in the flavour of the hinterland with its attractive wooded and farming landscapes  – but also because you walk in smugglers’ footsteps. NB Make sure you get the whole Smugglers Trail on a special map you can buy from the Gunsgreen House shop.
The path passes near Fleurs Farm (private) before turning north-west towards Coldingham by way of sheltered country lanes. Sure enough, it is likely that this farm and the family that occupied it in those days were active in the smuggling trade.

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Looking down to the Linkim Shore from the Smugglers Trail. This picture shows the position of the signposted path that leads inland and round to Coldingham
From the Customs records, we know John Swanston, who rented Floors, as it was then called, in the 1780s, was the brother of Charles Swanston, of Northfield, leader of the raid on the Customs Warehouse in Eyemouth in 1780. John was one of Charles’ executors as was their sister Katharine, who was married to James Newton of Marshall Meadows, (near Berwick-upon-Tweed). This was yet another coastal farm connected with smuggling. You see? Everyone was in this business all those years ago!
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Looking down on the Linkim Shore from the Fleurs Farm to Coldingham circular route.
This route is part of the Coldingham paths network and leads into the village of Coldingham, from where a return to Eyemouth can be made via either the road to Coldingham Sands or, a little further, the historic Creel Path, either cutting down to the Sands or reaching the coast further on, at St Abbs, for the return to Eyemouth via the main shore path.
Time: starting from Gunsgreen House in Eyemouth, allow up to four hours there and back, if intending to spend time en route or in Coldingham.

Distance: approx 7.5 miles / 12 km (Gunsgreen House and return). Not suitable for wheelchairs.

Other circular walks from the Smugglers Trail

The walk from the Linkim Shore via Fleurs to Coldingham can also be enjoyed if you start from St Abbs, of course.  In this case, leave the village by the old Creel Path for Coldingham, from where – at the caravan park – the local paths network leads round past Fleurs Farm and down to the shore for the return to St Abbs. The picture below shows part of the route.  Other circular options are also listed below.
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The Smugglers Trail circular walk via Fleurs and Coldingham can also start from St Abbs. This is the view from the St Abbs path, looking towards Coldingham Sands
  • On the Eyemouth to Burnmouth section, a small loop walk from Gunsgreen House can be done by cutting across the golf course (signposted). A longer variation is to climb to the highest point of this section (marked on OS maps as Blaikie Heugh) then cut downhill to return by the Burnmouth to Eyemouth minor road.
  • Between St Abbs and Cove there are further options. A variety of circular walks from St Abbs to St Abb’s Head or the main carpark at Northfield are also possible, for example, out by the coastline and return via the lighthouse access road or the Mire Loch.
  • From the main coastal path between St Abb’s head and Dowlaw, Lumsdaine Farm and Westerside Dean are signposted, from where the walker can return to Coldingham via minor roads.
  • The famous geological site of Siccar Point is also easily accessible from the Smugglers Trail where it drops down from Old Cambus West Mains to the access road to Drysdales Ltd. (Look for the information panel by the carpark.)
  • Where the Trail passes Pease Bay caravan park, there is a circular route round the woodlands of Pease Dean Nature Reserve.

Disclaimer

All walking information provided here by Gunsgreen House and their agents is purely advisory and offered free of charge. Walkers must assess their own fitness and the route’s suitability for their party. Gunsgreen House can accept no responsibility for any accident or loss while on the Smugglers Trail or Berwickshire Coastal Path.